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Colorfill (worktops)
#1
Hi,

Just a quick enquiry; I am fitting my kitchen and have a couple of packs of B&Q Colorfill.

My problem is that the amount of solvent that they provide in the pack would probably be sufficient if I were fitting a worktop in a dolls house but falls spectacularly short in my actual kitchen! The only info on the bottle of Solvents is the word 'SOLVENT' printed alongside the 20ml size.

Can anybody tell me what I should be using as I don't want to buy more Colorfill just for the miniscule amount of solvents that are packaged? It smells very much like nail polish remover, is it the case that it's the same stuff? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Cr1spy

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#2
go to a upvc facia supplier and buy a bottle of solvent cleaner. Next time use water proof Pva not colour fill
Festool.... Cheaper than maffel

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#3
B&Q supply their customers with Colorfill as they expect the worktops to be fitted by amateurs. As Chip says you should be using waterproof PVA adhesive.

If you have used the jig and router correctly there should be no need for Colorfill. If you want to achieve the perfect joint once you have clamped the two faces together with a liberal coating of PVA, try lifting the worktop with the male joint at the far end and wedge an offcut of chipboard between the worktop and the base unit. You will see a thin line of PVA ooze out of the joint. Wipe clean with a damp cloth and leave wedged for about an hour.

Perfect joint every time.

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#4
Cheers for the quick responses, my worktop mitres were cut by a pro so all's good there, no need to fill at all. Where I am filling is where the ends fit onto the end of the worktop. I'm thinking I might just buy some metal worktop ends instead:

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?ac...earch=true

and fix them with plasterboard screws.

Where I need to fill between the worktop and the upstand what would you suggest, Pva? I was thinking of using a small bead of black silicone as my worktops are black.

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#5
If you are talking about the end trims for the worktops then just apply PVA to the exposed chipboard and iron the edging strips with a warm iron as this accelerates the drying time for the PVA. Fit the edging strips flush with the underside of the tops and file level. No need for Colorfill.

Use Clear silicone not black. Black is messy and looks awful if not done properly. Just apply a very thin bead where the upstands meet the tops and smooth in with a wet finger.

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#6
Wink 
Stretch Wrote:Just apply a very thin bead where the upstands meet the tops and smooth in with a wet finger.

I'm pretty proficient with the application of silicone so I might risk the black, bit of advice back the other way though to return the favour......when running a finger or cloth along silicone you should use spirits as silicone is not water based, caulk is the stuff you want to use a damp cloth/finger with. ;)

Thanks again for the help.

Cr1spy.

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#7
i don't agree with that. 1 don't use a finger, get the siliconing tools the karl dahm make 2. use soapy water as like you said it is solvent based and all you are wanting to do is smooth it down not thin it out and reduce its working life
Festool.... Cheaper than maffel

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#8
Each to their own eh Chip? Wink2

Never been able to get on with those tools. Prefer to use the trusty finger....

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#9
i supose so about the tool. I can do a near perfect job with my finger, but i do a perfect job with the tool and faster
Festool.... Cheaper than maffel

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