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worktop radius
Hi There, Got a kitchen to fit from B&Q and the end base unit & door is curved, but the natural wood worktop delivered has no radius on it... does anyone no the radius so i can make a jig before going there! (allowing for the door and an overhang).
any advice would be much appreciated.

i always use a shelf or part of the unit going under neath ? same set up on my router as for mason mitres /9 mm offset , also do it for laminate tops , but i belt sand the back of the edging to reduce that thick line you otherwise get and push the curve forward so it dos nt taper as much coming out of the bull nose .

The radius you require depends on the overhang from the carcase, but the Howdens curved units (which I think are the same as the PWS doors) have a carcase radius of 190mm, and the door is 210mm radius. On the howdens units, the carcase is 575 deep, and the tops 615, meaning there is a 40mm overhang from the carcase (20mm from the door) therefore the worktop needs to be about 230mm.

I think you'll have the same with B&Q units - they have a 560 carc depth with a 600 top, so the same 40mm overhang.

As for making a jig, I'd suggest you make one like this:

I can't seem to add pictures - I'll look up how to do that and reply again!
Insert amusing/intelligent/witty comment here

OK, I'd suggest you make a simple jig like this out of 9mm MDF:


I'd suggest making it 400x200mm - mark a centreline (100mm in), and a line 100mm from one end. Where they intersect, drill a 30mm hole for the guide bush on your router with a spade or forstner bit. It needs to be a nice fit, with little or no slop.

Once you know the exact radius you need, drill a pivot point for the jig along the centreline. for a 230mm radius, this would be 236mm (230 + 1/4", (half the bit diameter)):


On the underside of the worktop, mark a line 230mm in from the front edge, and the end. Where these lines intersect is the cenrepoint of your radius. Drill a pivot point the same diameter as in the template. You can then use the drill bit as the pivot:


Place the template into position, and where the centreline on the jig lines up with the mark on the top, place a clamp to act as an end stop:


Repeat at the other side, and check the jig moves freely:


You can then rout the curve, in several passes:


Easier to do than to describe. You can make the jig beforehand, and then set the radius once you're sure of the dimension.

Just remember to work from the underside, and don't drill all the way through!

Hope that helps!!! ThumbUp
Insert amusing/intelligent/witty comment here
[-] The following 1 user Likes jonny round boy's post:
  • Bill Darr (06-04-2015 08:33 AM)


I don't think I've seen a post as helpful or descriptive as that on this forum..........ever!

Have a Tokens boost old bean...............ThumbUp

Cheers Stretch!!!

I created these images for a tutorial I wrote on how to rout curved corners, so TBH it was a perfect question for me!
Insert amusing/intelligent/witty comment here

i used the same method for my tv cabinet apart from the jig was 2400mm long
Festool.... Cheaper than maffel

Thanks for all the help and advice, the diagrams could'nt of been any clearer, i should'nt have any probs now,brilliant!
thanks again!Smile1

have to agree with Stretch JRB, thats a FANTASTIC reply!!!! ThumbUp
I didn't fail the test, I just found 100 ways to do it wrong.
Benjamin Franklin


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