Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
worktop radius
#1
Hi There, Got a kitchen to fit from B&Q and the end base unit & door is curved, but the natural wood worktop delivered has no radius on it... does anyone no the radius so i can make a jig before going there! (allowing for the door and an overhang).
any advice would be much appreciated.
Reply
#2
i always use a shelf or part of the unit going under neath ? same set up on my router as for mason mitres /9 mm offset , also do it for laminate tops , but i belt sand the back of the edging to reduce that thick line you otherwise get and push the curve forward so it dos nt taper as much coming out of the bull nose .
Reply
#3
The radius you require depends on the overhang from the carcase, but the H*****s curved units (which I think are the same as the PWS doors) have a carcase radius of 190mm, and the door is 210mm radius. On the H*****s units, the carcase is 575 deep, and the tops 615, meaning there is a 40mm overhang from the carcase (20mm from the door) therefore the worktop needs to be about 230mm.

I think you'll have the same with B&Q units - they have a 560 carc depth with a 600 top, so the same 40mm overhang.

As for making a jig, I'd suggest you make one like this:

I can't seem to add pictures - I'll look up how to do that and reply again!
Insert amusing/intelligent/witty comment here
Reply
#4
OK, I'd suggest you make a simple jig like this out of 9mm MDF:

resim

I'd suggest making it 400x200mm - mark a centreline (100mm in), and a line 100mm from one end. Where they intersect, drill a 30mm hole for the guide bush on your router with a spade or forstner bit. It needs to be a nice fit, with little or no slop.

Once you know the exact radius you need, drill a pivot point for the jig along the centreline. for a 230mm radius, this would be 236mm (230 + 1/4", (half the bit diameter)):

resim

On the underside of the worktop, mark a line 230mm in from the front edge, and the end. Where these lines intersect is the cenrepoint of your radius. Drill a pivot point the same diameter as in the template. You can then use the drill bit as the pivot:

resim

Place the template into position, and where the centreline on the jig lines up with the mark on the top, place a clamp to act as an end stop:

resim

Repeat at the other side, and check the jig moves freely:

resim

You can then rout the curve, in several passes:

resim

Easier to do than to describe. You can make the jig beforehand, and then set the radius once you're sure of the dimension.

Just remember to work from the underside, and don't drill all the way through!

Hope that helps!!! ThumbUp
Insert amusing/intelligent/witty comment here
[-] The following 1 user Likes jonny round boy's post:
  • Bill Darr (06-04-2015 08:33 AM)
Reply
#5
JRB..........

I don't think I've seen a post as helpful or descriptive as that on this forum..........ever!

Have a Tokens boost old bean...............ThumbUp
Reply
#6
Cheers Stretch!!!

I created these images for a tutorial I wrote on how to rout curved corners, so TBH it was a perfect question for me!
Insert amusing/intelligent/witty comment here
Reply
#7
i used the same method for my tv cabinet apart from the jig was 2400mm long
Festool.... Cheaper than maffel
Reply
#8
Thanks for all the help and advice, the diagrams could'nt of been any clearer, i should'nt have any probs now,brilliant!
thanks again!Smile1
Reply
#9
have to agree with Stretch JRB, thats a FANTASTIC reply!!!! ThumbUp
I didn't fail the test, I just found 100 ways to do it wrong.
Benjamin Franklin
Reply
#10
very impressive ThumbUp Ijust borrow the jig from the workshop which is from pws Th_ROFLMAO
Reply
#11
had a proper jig until some thieving bar steward decided to lighten the load on my van a few years ago Angry now I have one made from mdf almost identical at a fraction of the cost ThumbUp
Reply
#12
Excellent description for the outside radius, but has anyone done one for an inside radius. I have a Magnet kitchen to fit which has an inside radiused corner cabinet, worktop is american black walnut. Any help would be gratefully received.
Reply
#13
For an inside radius, I'd use the same jig to make a template in 9 or 12mm MDF, then clamp that to the worktop & cut with router & 30mm collar.
Insert amusing/intelligent/witty comment here
Reply
#14
jonny round boy Wrote:For an inside radius, I'd use the same jig to make a template in 9 or 12mm MDF, then clamp that to the worktop & cut with router & 30mm collar.

My radius is at the corner of a 600mm long surface and 900mm bar at right angles. So do I biscuit join a piece onto the side then cut?? Other problem is that a sink has to go in this corner too, a small 450 dia stainless. Not ideal for jointing but will well glued biscuit joints work??
Reply
#15
Guest Wrote:
jonny round boy Wrote:For an inside radius, I'd use the same jig to make a template in 9 or 12mm MDF, then clamp that to the worktop & cut with router & 30mm collar.

My radius is at the corner of a 600mm long surface and 900mm bar at right angles. So do I biscuit join a piece onto the side then cut?? Other problem is that a sink has to go in this corner too, a small 450 dia stainless. Not ideal for jointing but will well glued biscuit joints work??



I'm not quite sure what you mean - I was going to suggest you post a picture, but since you're a guest I don't think you can.

Could you explain it a bit more?
Insert amusing/intelligent/witty comment here
Reply
#16
jonny round boy Wrote:
Guest Wrote:
jonny round boy Wrote:For an inside radius, I'd use the same jig to make a template in 9 or 12mm MDF, then clamp that to the worktop & cut with router & 30mm collar.

My radius is at the corner of a 600mm long surface and 900mm bar at right angles. So do I biscuit join a piece onto the side then cut?? Other problem is that a sink has to go in this corner too, a small 450 dia stainless. Not ideal for jointing but will well glued biscuit joints work??

Thanks for prompt replies. I'll try to explain.

We have a U shaped kitchen with breakfast bar at the right hand end. The left hand end is a standard right handed square join with 600mm units. The right hand end has the bar as a peninsula, to be 900 worktop. Where this joins the 600 the cupboards have curved doors on the inside of the corner (latest magnet design) so if the worktops meet at right angles there is a curved insert required to cover the units.

Hope this makes some sense, might have to join and post pictures, but what do I draw them in?

Many thanks
Donald

I'm not quite sure what you mean - I was going to suggest you post a picture, but since you're a guest I don't think you can.

Could you explain it a bit more?
Reply
#17
Hi not sure if links work but you can see the inside corner to the back of this, where the kettle is.


http://www.magnet.co.uk/magnet-kitchen-c...-lineaire/
Reply
#18
OK. Will post back shortly.
Insert amusing/intelligent/witty comment here
Reply
#19
From your description, you've basically got this:

resim

And you need to add a curved fillet like this in red:

resim

Trouble is, if you just add it like this, you'll have a problem with the 'pointy bits' at the end of this piece which could easily break off. Plus, it'll look crap.

What I would do is add a new piece to the breakfast bar, glued & biscuitted to essentially widen the b/bar:

resim

You can then cut the curve into this, and then butt-joint the 600 piece to it as normal:

resim

Is that what you're looking to do?
Insert amusing/intelligent/witty comment here
Reply
#20
Yes that is exactly what I need to do with the added complication that a sink is to be cut in the diagonal centre of the corner. So if I biscuit joint and use a good glue would i get away with no or a few clamps?

I like your idea and should have enough worktop with the grain/blocks running the right way to do this, just need to work out the radius.

Really appreciate your help.

Donald
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)