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hinge for furniture door for integrated fridge unit
#1
I've just about completed my first installation as a diyer but have been stumped by the furniture hinge (concealed hinge) required for my integrated fridge freezer (baumatic br27b - single unit, fridge top / freezer bottom). I've been using blum cliptops 107 degrees for all other units (as that is what came with them) and didn't receive any special hinge for the fridge unit door.

The issue is the hinge arm height seems a bit too high and more importantly, the opening angle isn't large enough for me to get the trays out of the fridge to clean / maintain.

Spoke to blum - they've sent me their 'fridge/freezer/appliance' hinge which appears to be a modul hinge of 95 degrees or so... not very helpful as I figure I need atleast 130 - 135 to open the door wide enough.

Baumatic tell me that it should have came with the installation kit... it didn't and it is going to cost me 50£ to get another... that only comes with 4 hinges when I actually need 5 as the unit is taller than the fridge/freezer (there is an opening to the top - therefore the fridge furniture door requires 3 hinges).

I did see some blum hinges at IKEA last w/e that seemed to do the trick (can't tell wtf they were though)... I might have to return with a screwdriver and remove 5 of them from 5 separate units.

My lack of experience is letting me down at the moment - any advice would be appreciated.

theNovice
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#2
hello Novice

firstly there are 2 types of door hanging on integrated F/F first you get the fixed door type where the cabinet door fixes to the appliance door hinges therefore negating the Blum hinges!
secondly you get the cabint door hanging on the Blum hinges and you get a set of "sliders and brackets that fit to the back of the cabinet door to attached the 2 together!

did you get some slider with your F/F? if not then i suspect you have the fixed hinge type!

if you did get the slider kit then the appliance has to be pushed over in the cabinet as far away from the Blum hinges as possible this will give the clearance you need also you should be using 110 degree hinges .
hope that makes it a tad clearer, if not sure then pop a pic or 2 of the apliance in situ and we'll definatly be able to help! ThumbUp
I didn't fail the test, I just found 100 ways to do it wrong.
Benjamin Franklin
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#3
Thanks Marc.

I do have the sliders so the cab door is meant to use it's own hinges. My camera got nicked on a recent trip - I'll try and take a pic on my phone.

Essentially, fridge door binds on the hinge arm when almost at max of 107 degrees... I'll try the pic and see if that can help clarify.
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#4
Guest Wrote:Thanks Marc.

I do have the sliders so the cab door is meant to use it's own hinges. My camera got nicked on a recent trip - I'll try and take a pic on my phone.

Essentially, fridge door binds on the hinge arm when almost at max of 107 degrees... I'll try the pic and see if that can help clarify.

if you have the sliders fitted it shouldnt do! but try moving the appliance over further in the housing! unfortunatly the sliders idea is not the better of the 2 Angry
I didn't fail the test, I just found 100 ways to do it wrong.
Benjamin Franklin
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#5
Hi Novice,

I fit baumatic regularly.. and tbh have never had a problem.

My only guess is that you may have the f/f set too far back into the housing?

standard hinges and the sliders should work ok.. if you could post a pic , might be easier to help.
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#6
Thanks ns.

Just took a few pics from the mobile, will attempt to upload for you and marc to look at.
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#7
I've attempted to attach a fiew photos below:

in the cab:
       

the clip top hinge itself:
   

the maximum opening:
   

trying to remove one of the shelves - it butts against the fridge door as I can't get the pr*ck to open wide enough:
   
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#8
nskitchenfitting Wrote:Hi Novice,

I fit baumatic regularly.. and tbh have never had a problem.

My only guess is that you may have the f/f set too far back into the housing?

standard hinges and the sliders should work ok.. if you could post a pic , might be easier to help.

I'm sure the problem doesn't lie with either baumatic or blum but me... just a bit frustrated that I don't know what to ask for when speaking to them and they probably don't deal with numpties directly...
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#9
Hi Novice and welcome.

Your problem here is the hinges themselves.

The hinges you need are the old slide on type but not just the regular ones, these are very slim and probably only stand about 10mm off the carcase edge including the hinge plate. You get very little left to right adjustment with these but you don't actually need much. As Marc said you need to ensure the appliance is as far right (in your case) as it will go and the front of the appliance doors should be flush with the carcase edge.

It might be worth taking a trip to B&Q or Homebase to see if they've got any of these hinges as I think Homebase are still selling kitchens with slide on hinges What

BTW, if I'm not mistaken, the shelves pull out as far as they will go then you lift the front edge vertically and it drags the back edge forward - looking at your pics. Go on try it!!
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#10
I fitted a Baumatic Int F/F last year.
I don't remember struggling to get the shelves out, but I do recall having to screw the hinges on the carcass first. I fitted the doors on and adjusted them to suit. Took them off again, then slid the appliance in, and finally attach the door fascias. A bit of a struggle on your own, but it all worked fine when installed.
....fully qualified... head of dept of.... bucket washer!
Ohh, and chief tea-maker


http://www.claydon-kitchens.co.uk
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#11
Stretch Wrote:Hi Novice and welcome.

Your problem here is the hinges themselves.

The hinges you need are the old slide on type but not just the regular ones, these are very slim and probably only stand about 10mm off the carcase edge including the hinge plate. You get very little left to right adjustment with these but you don't actually need much. As Marc said you need to ensure the appliance is as far right (in your case) as it will go and the front of the appliance doors should be flush with the carcase edge.

It might be worth taking a trip to B&Q or Homebase to see if they've got any of these hinges as I think Homebase are still selling kitchens with slide on hinges What

BTW, if I'm not mistaken, the shelves pull out as far as they will go then you lift the front edge vertically and it drags the back edge forward - looking at your pics. Go on try it!!

Thanks Stretch. Will take a shot to local Homebase and check it out.

I did try your trick on the shelves, it works on the middle, but not enough play for the top or bottom. Like you say, I'm trying to do the job with the wrong hinges.

I will look for the sliders you mention with a small arm height or thin profile (not sure what you call it) and larger opening.

ps. I'm really digging the forum.... once I've gotten through this kitchen, I'm off to do a self build... this will undoubtedly throw up some more queries!
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#12
Thanks Claydon Lad and all others. I really appreciate the advice. If I ever get it completed I'll post pics of the completed job. Other than the fridge (and the diswasher that is still giving me agro) I'm fairly chuffed for a first effort.
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#13
No worries, we're always happy to help here! ThumbUp

Once you've been registered a few days and got a few more posts you can upload pics to the forum's Photobucket account (see main page for details) then we can see your pics full size in your posts!
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#14
theNovice Wrote:Thanks Claydon Lad and all others. I really appreciate the advice. If I ever get it completed I'll post pics of the completed job. Other than the fridge (and the diswasher that is still giving me agro) I'm fairly chuffed for a first effort.

wonder if the decor door is catching on the plinth or the appliance wont go into the gap fully! Th_ROFLMAO
I didn't fail the test, I just found 100 ways to do it wrong.
Benjamin Franklin
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#15
marc1106 Wrote:
theNovice Wrote:Thanks Claydon Lad and all others. I really appreciate the advice. If I ever get it completed I'll post pics of the completed job. Other than the fridge (and the diswasher that is still giving me agro) I'm fairly chuffed for a first effort.

wonder if the decor door is catching on the plinth or the appliance wont go into the gap fully! Th_ROFLMAO

Hmm, tell us what your dishwasher problem is and we'll use our collective braincell count of 2 to see if we can help you! :Lol:
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#16
Stretch Wrote:
marc1106 Wrote:
theNovice Wrote:Thanks Claydon Lad and all others. I really appreciate the advice. If I ever get it completed I'll post pics of the completed job. Other than the fridge (and the diswasher that is still giving me agro) I'm fairly chuffed for a first effort.

wonder if the decor door is catching on the plinth or the appliance wont go into the gap fully! Th_ROFLMAO

Hmm, tell us what your dishwasher problem is and we'll use our collective braincell count of 2 to see if we can help you! :Lol:

You're right, the door is catching on the plinth. From my nose around IKEA last weekend and another higher end kitchen shop, it seems that it is standard practice to 'adjust' the kick by cutting 3/4 - 1 inch off it at the door.

The other 'novice' hurdles are:
1) the furniture door requires the lower 'catches' to be recessed in the door slightly (1-2mm) - it's not a huge issue i'm just a bit nervous of taking a router or chisel to the door to do this (as I've got no skills with either) and
2) I've yet to find the sweet spot on the door alignment. It seems I can't do this w/o having the weight of the furniture door attached and I'm nervous to carve the door to attach the fixings if the appliance door won't properly align anyway.

Again, inexperience and a bit of trepidation standing between me and a finished job.
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#17
theNovice Wrote:
Stretch Wrote:
marc1106 Wrote:
theNovice Wrote:Thanks Claydon Lad and all others. I really appreciate the advice. If I ever get it completed I'll post pics of the completed job. Other than the fridge (and the diswasher that is still giving me agro) I'm fairly chuffed for a first effort.

wonder if the decor door is catching on the plinth or the appliance wont go into the gap fully! Th_ROFLMAO

Hmm, tell us what your dishwasher problem is and we'll use our collective braincell count of 2 to see if we can help you! :Lol:


you shouldnt need to recess the brackets. they normally sit internally on the d/w.

You're right, the door is catching on the plinth. From my nose around IKEA last weekend and another higher end kitchen shop, it seems that it is standard practice to 'adjust' the kick by cutting 3/4 - 1 inch off it at the door.

The other 'novice' hurdles are:
1) the furniture door requires the lower 'catches' to be recessed in the door slightly (1-2mm) - it's not a huge issue i'm just a bit nervous of taking a router or chisel to the door to do this (as I've got no skills with either) and
2) I've yet to find the sweet spot on the door alignment. It seems I can't do this w/o having the weight of the furniture door attached and I'm nervous to carve the door to attach the fixings if the appliance door won't properly align anyway.

Again, inexperience and a bit of trepidation standing between me and a finished job.
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#18
nskitchenfitting Wrote:you shouldnt need to recess the brackets. they normally sit internally on the d/w.

I could have it completely wrong, but the brackets I'm referring to are two square metal plates (for the bottom of the furniture door) that have a 'hook' - like if you cut a tab from the middle of the plate then bent it: (i can't represent the bend in my artwork!)

____________
|..O.. ___..O..|
|......|....|.....|
|......|....|.....|
|..O..........O..|
---------------

From the technical drawing it looks as though you're supposed to fit the bracket flush on the furniture door (meaning the thickness of the bracket is recessed or routed out).

The bracket secured to the furniture door then slots into the d/w door front.
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#19
theNovice Wrote:
nskitchenfitting Wrote:you shouldnt need to recess the brackets. they normally sit internally on the d/w.

I could have it completely wrong, but the brackets I'm referring to are two square metal plates (for the bottom of the furniture door) that have a 'hook' - like if you cut a tab from the middle of the plate then bent it: (i can't represent the bend in my artwork!)

____________
|..O.. ___..O..|
|......|....|.....|
|......|....|.....|
|..O..........O..|
---------------

From the technical drawing it looks as though you're supposed to fit the bracket flush on the furniture door (meaning the thickness of the bracket is recessed or routed out).

The bracket secured to the furniture door then slots into the d/w door front.

does that plate have a series of very small holes running in a line through it if so that bracket actually goes in the top of the D/W to secure it to adjacent units, usuallt the brackets for the doors are surface mounted then after slotting the door in place you remove 4 screws from the inside of the appliance door and replace them with longer ones that go through the appliance door into the decor door from inside! ThumbUp
I didn't fail the test, I just found 100 ways to do it wrong.
Benjamin Franklin
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#20
marc1106 Wrote:does that plate have a series of very small holes running in a line through it if so that bracket actually goes in the top of the D/W to secure it to adjacent units, usuallt the brackets for the doors are surface mounted then after slotting the door in place you remove 4 screws from the inside of the appliance door and replace them with longer ones that go through the appliance door into the decor door from inside! ThumbUp

My drawing includes lines of '.'s because the drawing goes out of whack when I preview my posting - so no series of small holes. The only holes in the plate are for four fixing screws - 'O's in the case of my drawing.

However, I didn't know about going through the d/w door from the inside to grab the decor door... will have another look at the plans!

Thanks again!
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